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Robert Parker-Wine Advocate #180

WINE ADVOCATE ISSUE 180 – December 31, 2008 (2006 vintage)
By Robert Parker, Jr.

2006 Vintage
As I wrote last year, this is a fabulous success story, and one of the reasons why the wine world can be so exciting. Former Hungarian immigrant, Lou Kapcsandy, along with his wife, Bobbi, and son, Louis, purchased Beringer’s old State Lane Vineyard, which was often a component part of the Private Reserve Cabernets, brought in Bordelais Denis Malbec to over look the winemaking (the vineyard was planted to the specifications of Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer), and in a few short years Kapcsandy began producing world class wines. His Roberta’s Reserve may be the finest Merlot-based wine in the New World. Additionally, the rose is also one of the top roses produced. The 2005 vintage was the first year where this estate truly showcased its potential. There are three red cuvees produced, the Cabernet Sauvignon from the State Lane Vineyard, an Estate Cuvee, which is usually a blend of approximately equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with small quantities of Cabernet Franc included, and their flagship offering, the Roberta’s Reserve, which is generally about 90% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. All three efforts merit considerable attention. They seem to combine the best of French savoir faire (thanks to Denis Malbec and the proprietor’s love of French wine) with the extraordinary ripe, pure fruit grown in well-tended Napa Valley vineyards. P.S. For mailing list members, there is also a small quantity of Vintage Port. The 2007 tasted very good when I tried it.

2006 Kapcsandy Family Roberta’s Reserve – 97 points
I was blown away by the 2006 Roberta’s Reserve State Lane Vineyard, which was even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Sadly, there are only 250 cases of this amazing Merlot-based effort (94% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc). Prodigious aromas of melted chocolate, licorice, espresso roast, black cherries, black currants, and underlying floral and forest floor scents are followed by a sensationally concentrated, opulent, rich wine. This amazing Napa Valley tour de force makes a strong argument, particularly when tasted alongside the 2005 and 2007, that there is no better Merlot-based wine being made in California. Drink it over the next 25-30 years.

2006 Kapcsandy Family Cabernet Sauvignon – 93+ points
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard represents 600 cases made from a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. It is more backward, tight, and restrained than the 2005, but is substantial and broad in the mouth. A wine of considerable intensity as well as elegance and overall balance, this deep, concentrated 2006 requires 5-6 years of bottle age, as it has closed down considerably since I tasted it last year. It, too, should last for three decades.

2006 Kapcsandy Family Estate Cuvée – 93+ points
The 2006 Estate Cuvee State Lane Vineyard (a 630-case blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc) displays classic aromas of pain grille, espresso roast, black currants, mocha, and chocolate presented in a full-bodied, deep, textured, impressively pure style. The oak is restrained, the acidity noticeable, but not tart, and the tannins substantial, but sweet. Give this beauty 2-4 years of bottle age, and enjoy it over the following 2-3 decades.