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Cynthia Hurley Newsletter

Release of New California Cult Cab -
Kapcsandy Family Vineyards 2005
from the famous
State Lane Vineyard in Napa


Kapcsandy Family son Louis Jr. and father Lou flanking their world-class winemakers Rob Lawson (middle right) and Denis Malbec of Chateau Latour (middle left) in the Yountville, Napa Valley vineyard. "This winery is definitely one of Napa's up-and-coming superstars." -Robert Parker
Okay, I admit it, I've gone over to the dark side- or maybe, I should say, the sunny side - the sunny California side. For 25 years I have offered nothing but French wines. There's a reason for that. French wines are the most riveting wines in the world. And the country is not exactly unpleasant to spend time in. But, something happened to me the other day as I was slicing into my rosy filet at a fully-dressed table at Chateau Cheval Blanc in Saint-Emilion sipping back and forth between the 1996 and the 1986, trying to decide which I liked better. I got my mind changed. Not about French wines. No, never. My feelings for those wines are firm, but about perhaps opening the door a crack, a sliver, and letting one wine from California in, if it proved itself worthy.
My lunch partner was a man who, in between sips of his Cheval Blanc, started to put a bug in my ear about the new Kapcsandy Family Winery (pronounced "Kap-shandy") - specifically about how it was a Napa wine with French sensibilities. A California-French fusion. I liked that idea. This wine has been recognized in Wine Spectator as one of the top new estates with full potential cult status. They grouped it with the California Collectables like Harlan, Bryant Family, and Colgin, all of which sell for $500-plus per bottle and are impossible to get unless you are on the mailing list. There is a 5-year wait even to get on those lists and finally score the chance to buy a bottle or two. So Kapcsandy is something quite special and by California (or even top Bordeaux Standards) a fair-priced wine.
Well, when I sampled the wine, I loved it for its pungent cherries and raspberries with the great taste of vanilla. The balance and acidity level seemed perfect to me. And, it was true about its Bordeaux-like character. This is a wine that has a Bordeaux stamp all over it - no surprise because the fellow that makes the wine grew up watching his father and his grandfather make vintages for First Growth Chateau Latour in Bordeaux. Yes, THE Chateau Latour.
I'm talking about Denis Malbec. Following in his father's and grandfather's footsteps, Denis himself made Latour from 1994 to 1999. And now he's making Kapcsandy Family Winery wines. He knows how to make world-class wine from world-class vineyards. There is probably nobody around with higher standards. (The 2005 Chateau Latour sells for about $19,000 a case right now, by the way. Crazy-ridiculous, but true.)
The Kapcsandy family bought the State Lane Vineyard in 2000 from Beringer Estates. This is one of the greatest vineyards in Napa. They make two fantastic wines here. We have been allocated very limited quantities of the 2005 Estate Cuvee State Lane Vineyard and the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard. Read what Parker says about these wines:
2005 Estate Cuvee State Lane Vineyard:
A blend of 51% Cabernet, 46% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc, the wine exhibits a dark plum-purple hue. The aromas and flavors are of charcoal, chocolate, blueberries, black currants, loamy soil, mineral, and flowers. It should drink nicely for 10 to 15 years. Only 1400 cases were made." Rated 94.
The family was originally intending to grow Cabernet Sauvignon grapes exclusively since that is what Beringer had done, but an extensive vineyard analysis revealed that this was a very unique piece of terroir with multiple types of geology suitable for more than one grape type -- just like the Left Bank's vineyards in Bordeaux are nearly always a mixture of soil conditions -- some areas suitable for Cabernet Sauvignon and other parts more suitable for Merlot. The Kapcsandy family decided to follow a more French model and let the vineyard do the talking.
The second wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Here's what Parker has to say about it:
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard:
"This wine will remind you of a premium Bordeaux. Copious amounts of black currants, graphite, cedar, spice box, and toasty, smoky oak emerge from this opaque purple, rich, full-bodied, Cab. It demonstrates what a passionate proprietor can achieve in a short time with good raw materials and the right winemaking team. Anticipated maturity 2009-2020+." Rated 96.
So, I think I can live with myself for letting a California wine sneak under the fence, particularly this one. It speaks French. Cynthia Hurley






Cynthia Hurley
Cynthia Hurley French Wines
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email: rhurley@aol.com
Phone: 617 965 4251