The flagship Cabernet Sauvignon blend, represents only 24% of the entire 2008 production. The wine is produced from only the finest Cabernet Sauvignon lots, and includes small additions of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 100% Estate-grown fruit is vinified using cultured yeast. Yields typically are 2.5-3.2 tons/acre. Malo-lactic fermentation is performed in barrel, and the resulting wine is bottled without fining or filtration. The “Grand-Vin” title signifies this wine as the ultimate expression that could be achieved from the given vintage, and will provide early drinking pleasure as well as have the ability to age gracefully for more than 20 years.
This is another absolutely stunning effort of this wine, just like the 2007 vintage of it. In this vintage the blend was 87 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, five percent each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc and just three percent of Petit Verdot. It was kept in French oak barrels, 85 percent new, for around 20 months. As the Estate Cuvée, the color is dark, almost opaque, but the rest is quite different although you’ll see the house style. First of all, the nose is just stunning, totally amazing in its intensity and concentration, which however doesn’t make the wine overblown in any sense. On the contrary it’s so elegant thanks to its purity and freshness, and in contrast to the Estate Cuvée, there are already those complex Bordeaux like notes of cedar, lead pencil and grassiness (which is not unripness, but a quality sign on a perfect harvest decision). Still the fruit is dark, a bit sweetish and just lovely. On the palate it’s very rich with a great intensity, good mid palate and lingering aftertaste, it is well held together by the firm but perfectly ripe tannic structure, and thanks to the acidity the taste is fresh. Neither oak nor alcohol stands out, which is another sign of a very great wine, but there is s slight oak bitterness in the very finish of the taste, which is totally natural is a young wine like this.
Bright medium ruby. Crushed cassis, blackberry, bitter chocolate and menthol on the nose, along with a pronounced rocky minerality. Densely packed and energetic, with powerful dark berry, crushed stone and saline flavors enlivened by a lavender element. Finishes very long and firm. This uncompromisingly dry wine shut down in the glass and gives every sign of needing a good eight to ten years of cellaring.
Another perfect wine (identical to the 2007) is the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard. Composed of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (430 cases produced), this is an exquisite wine of great precision and profound concentration and complexity. It possesses an inky/purple color in addition to an ethereal nose of cassis, chocolate, burning embers, espresso and forest floor. Sweet tannins, a multidimensional mouthfeel, full-bodied power and good structure as well as freshness make for a prodigious example of wine that will benefit from 4-5 years of cellaring, but will keep for 25-30 years. This is an awesome effort, particularly after what the Kapcsandy family achieved in 2007.
Deep ruby. The nose offers an ineffable candied perfume of crushed dark berries, violet and licorice pastille, espresso and lavender. Then wonderfully precise and pure in the mouth, with outstanding inner-mouth aromatic character to the flavors of black and purple berries, lead pencil and flowers. I suspect this wine is in the process of shutting down in the bottle, and it may well need a decade or more to show its great inherent quality. Finishes with palate-saturating length and building but thoroughly ripe and fine-grained tannins. These 2007s have delivered splendidly on the outstanding potential they displayed from barrel a year ago.
Absolutely riveting, and even better than I predicted last year is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard. Made from 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, and the rest tiny dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (400 cases produced), in two weeks of tastings, this wine stood out as one of those singular efforts that it is impossible to get out of your mind and off of your palate. A flawless, seamless, profound example of Napa Cabernet, it exhibits an opaque purple color along with a gorgeous perfume of lead pencil shavings, cedar, creme de cassis, ink, flowers, and espresso roast. With phenomenal depth, a multidimensional personality, unbelievable length, and an impeccable integration of all its component parts, this stunning wine lasts and lasts, with a finish approaching a full minute. Give this profound wine 3-5 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 25-30 years. This is a superb line-up of wines from Lou Kapcsandy, who emigrated from Hungary to set up a construction business in Seattle, which he gave up for his true love - making wines along with his wife, Bobbi, and son, Louis. They were fortunate to be able to purchase Beringer’s State Lane Vineyard in Yountville, and have it completely replanted by Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer. They then brought in Bordelais Denis Malbec to help produce the wines, which have gone from strength to strength. The 2006s are magnificent, but may be eclipsed by the 2007s.
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard is a 650-case blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. A candidate for “wine of the vintage,” it boasts an extraordinary perfume of lead pencil shavings, plums, licorice, black currants, and white chocolate as well as a firm, Bordeaux-like structure, good purity, and incredibly sweet fruit. It will benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age, and last for 20-25 years. Those consumers who complain about high alcohol in California Cabernets should realize that this offering possesses less than 14% alcohol.
Good full, deep ruby. Deep, brooding aromas of dark fruits, licorice, violet, bitter chocolate and minerals. At once denser and tighter than the Estate Cuvee, showing a rather muscular, claret-like minerality today but also a stronger fruit component. Finishes with terrific spine for aging. Lay this one down. With the 2007 vintage, the label will say Grand Vin. Incidentally, the winery maximized the quality of its 2006s by selling off more than 500 cases' worth of wine through a private label.
